Beijing to Lhasa, Tuesday, October 11, 2016

We received a computer-generated wakeup call at 4:16 and then a live-person wakeup call nine minutes later. Neither was entirely necessary because I had been awake since 3:15. I thought was a short night’s sleep, but much worse sleep was ahead during our first night in Lhasa. We left the hotel before the appointed time of 5:15, marveling at how timely our group is. We got to the airport in time for our Air China flight to Lhasa, which was uneventful. We were fed a meal of either stir-fried pork or stir-fried beef (choose one), which was a pleasant surprise for those of us accustomed to air travel in the U.S.

After we collected our luggage, Hu showed our travel permit to one of the men guarding the exit from the airport. That document allowed us to leave the airport building and meeting our local guide, a cheerful Tibetan named Nima, a 33-year-old wearing a plaid shirt and blue jeans. Sunglasses were hanging backwards from his ears so that he could make eye contact while he gave us an earnest talk about Tibetan culture and Tibetan Buddhism. He taught us two very useful Tibetan words – tashidalek, which means hello and thukjiche, which means thank you. He urged us to use them frequently, lest people think him and inadequate guide. Also, it’s the polite thing to do in a foreign country.

After about an hour’s drive from the airport, we reached the Lhasa city limit, where our passports and travel permit had to be shown at a very military-looking checkpoint. After entering Lhasa we saw many trucks cruising the city filled with Chinese soldiers. Nima told us that he was absolutely unable to answer questions about the political situation in Tibet or the current status of the Dalai Lama, and he steadfastly refused to do so.

We checked in to the Dekang Hotel where we were greeted by two dancing yaks, accompanied by musicians playing traditional Tibetan drum and cymbals. The hotel lobby was decorated in traditional Tibetan style, including Buddhist paintings and a large prayer wheel in the middle of the lobby.We ate a late lunch at about 3:00 that included a delicious tomato-based soup with Tibetan spices. Stir-fried black mushrooms, pea pods, and pork was another favorite.

After lunch we boarded the bus and drove to the Norbulingka Palace, built in the eighteenth century by the seventh Dalai Lama. He was a frail man and moved his whole government there from the Potala Palace so that he could take advantage of the medicinal spring. We enjoyed taking pictures of a trio of young monks walking through the grounds. We entered the seventh Dalai Lama’s throne room, which has become temple or shrine. Yak-butter lamps were lighting and scenting the room. An eighty-year-old monk fingered prayer beads, while a much younger monk chanted from a book.

The current Dalai Lama built a two-story residence for himself on the grounds, called the New Summer Palace. As we walked through, we could see his bedroom, his study, his throne room and even his bathroom. Nima pointed out a 1950’s vintage “hi-fi” that had been given to the Dalai Lama by the Indian government. Nima called it a radio, but most of us knew that under its lid was also a record-player. While we were in the throne room, a family from northeastern Tibet entered and prostrated themselves three times before the throne. The mother instructed her five-year-old son how do prostrate properly. Nima could identify their region by what the women wore in their hair.

Supper at the hotel was delayed until 7:00 because of the late lunch. The soup this time was a potato-mushroom soup. We had a selection of stir-fried dishes, including some delicious sautéed spinach. The zucchini in cream sauce was especially good. Abby didn’t go to eat, pointing out that she had already had three meals that day. I brought her a couple of tasty apple fritters, and she fell right to sleep at about 7:30. 

I had a very restless night. My respiration must slow down when I sleep.  I was exhausted, but when I would fall asleep, I would wake up seemingly a minute later short of breath because of the altitude. This went on in five-minute cycles all night. I spent part of the night sleeping, or trying to sleep, in a chair, which seemed to help a bit. It’s easier to draw a deep breath while sitting up rather than lying down. I hope I sleep better tomorrow night, after another day of acclimation to the altitude.